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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.